The Eastern Half of Albuquerque's Central Avenue

In 1937, Route 66 in New Mexico was rerouted from the “Santa Fe Loop” to a route running straight across the state. In Albuquerque, this meant that Route 66 moved from 4^th Street to Central Avenue. Today there’s still an amazing collection of early and mid-20^th century buildings along Central Avenue, many of which have been restored or rehabilitated. There’s so much to see along Central Avenue that I’m doing 2 separate posts on it. This post is a 2022 driving tour of the eastern half of Central Avenue, up to where Central Avenue crosses Broadway downtown. My next post is a driving tour of the western half of Central Avenue.

A note about Central Avenue addresses: The addresses of buildings in this post on the north side of Central are called Central Avenue Northeast, while on the south side they’re called Central Avenue Southeast.

One of the first historic places you’ll see as you drive Central Avenue from the east is La Puerta Lodge at 9710 Central Avenue Southeast. La Puerta was built in 1949 and still has its original sign. This would be an amazing motel if it were restored.

La Puerta Lodge in Albuquerque

The Luna Lodge is at 9119 Central Avenue Southeast.

Luna Lodge in Albuquerque

The Luna was built in 1949 in Pueblo Spanish Revival style. The buildings have been beautifully restored, and the motel rooms are now apartments.

Some of the Luna Lodge's restored units

The Luna still has its original office with sign.

Office of the Luna Lodge (note sign under overhang on left)

The Tewa Lodge is at 5715 Central Avenue Northeast. It was built in 1946 in Pueblo Revival style. The neon sign is not original.

Tewa Lodge in Albuquerque

The 1950 or 1952 Hiland Theater and Shopping Center (sources give varying dates) are at 4800 Central Avenue Southeast.

Hiland Theater in Albuquerque

Loyola’s Family Restaurant is at 4500 Central Avenue Southeast.

Loyola Family Restaurant in Albuquerque

My husband is a huge fan of the series Breaking Bad and was thrilled when we were seated at a booth where some scenes were shot! We had a really nice lunch at Loyola’s, with classic diner food and very friendly service.

By the way, Breaking Bad and Better Call Saul were filmed at dozens of locations all around Albuquerque. If you’re a fan, it’s easy to find an online list of filming locations and do your own driving tour of the locations. We did this a few years ago, and it was a lot of fun!

The De Anza Motor Lodge was once at 4301 Central Avenue Northeast.

De Anza Motor Lodge sign and building in Albuquerque

The De Anza was built in 1939 in Spanish Colonial Pueblo Revival style. It was once the largest motel on Central Avenue, and a rare motel where African Americans were welcome. Today the sign has been restored. Just a few motel units remain, and they’ve been turned into offices.

What remains of the De Anza Motor Lodge

The former Premiere Motel at 3820 Central Avenue Southeast was built in 1941. It still has its dramatic sign, now advertising apartments.

Former Premiere Motel in Albuquerque

The former Johnson Service Station is at 3523 Central Avenue Northeast. It was built in 1946 in Streamline Moderne style. It has been rehabilitated into a restaurant.

Former Johnson Service Station in Albuquerque

Nob Hill Shopping Center is at 3500 Central Avenue Southeast. It was built in 1947 and was one of the country’s earliest strip malls.

Nob Hill Shopping Center, now Nob Hill Business Center

The former Jones Motor Company is at 3222 Central Avenue Southeast. It was built in 1939 as a Ford dealership and was once one of the most modern service stations in the West. In recent years it’s been rehabilitated into a restaurant.

Former Jones Motor Company in Albuquerque

The Monte Vista Fire Station is at 3201 Central Avenue Northeast. It was built in 1936 in Pueblo Revival style. Today it houses a restaurant.

Former Monte Vista Fire Company in Albuquerque

The Hiway House Motel at 3200 Central Avenue Northeast still has a great sign.

Hiway House Motel in Albuquerque

A former 1940s Valentines Diner at 2901 Central Avenue Northeast is now the Triangle Substation of the Albuquerque Police Department. About 2000 Valentine Diners were built in Kansas. This is one of only 3 left along Route 66.

Former Valentine Diner in Albuquerque

The former Pig & Calf Lunch is at 2132 Central Avenue Southeast. The business began here in 1924; this building was constructed in 1935.

Former Pig & Calf Lunch in Albuquerque

The adorable former Cottage Bakery is at 2004 Central Avenue Southeast. It was built in 1937.

Former Cottage Bakery in Albuquerque

The 66 Diner is at 1405 Central Avenue Northeast.

66 Diner in Albuquerque

The 66 Diner was once a service station, but the building has been altered so much over the years that today only about 30% of the building was once the service station. Today the Streamline Moderne style diner is a fun tribute to Route 66. We had a great lunch there with super-friendly service.

Part of the interior of the 66 Diner

The Hotel Parq Central at 806 Central Avenue Southeast was once a hospital, built in 1926.

Hotel Parq Central in Albuquerque

The (now closed) restaurant at 725 Central Avenue was originally a Denny’s Restaurant, and the sign was once a Denny’s sign.

Former Denny's in Albuquerque

A former 1938 Texaco station is at 320 Central Avenue Southeast. It was rehabilitated into the Standard Diner. Today it’s the Range Café Downtown.

Former Texaco station in Albuquerque

The Standard Diner was featured on Guy Fieri’s Diners, Drive Ins, and Dives show. The Range Café still serves the meatloaf that Guy Fieri raved about…and it was really good!

"DDD Meatloaf" at Range Cafe Downtown

The Range Café is just a couple of doors away from Broadway, which marks the center of Albuquerque and divides eastern and western Central Avenue. My next blog post explores the western half of Central Avenue.

Albuquerque's Historic Barelas Neighborhood on the Original Route 66

 As I noted in my post on Las Vegas, New Mexico, New Mexico has had two very different Route 66 “alignments.” Originally there was no road straight across New Mexico, so the first Route 66, from 1926 to 1934, curved north through Santa Fe, then south through Albuquerque, then west.

New Mexico's 2 Route 66 "alignments" (from route66roadtrip.com)

This original alignment is known today as the Santa Fe Loop of Route 66.

The original Route 66 goes through Albuquerque on 4^th Street Northwest and then 4^th Street Southwest. Just south of downtown, 4^th Street Southwest runs through a neighborhood called Barelas. When 4^th Street Southwest was Route 66, Barelas was full of shops serving Route 66 travelers as well as local residents, many of whom worked at a nearby railyard. After Route 66 was rerouted onto Central Avenue in the 1930s, Barelas businesses continued to serve local residents through the 1950s, when the business district began to decline. Today it is the Barelas-South Fourth Street National Historic District.

Barelas neighborhood banner

The historic district is only about 5 blocks long, so it’s very walkable. We started our 2022 walking tour with a great breakfast at Barelas Coffee House.

Barelas Coffee House

Barelas Coffee House is an old-school café serving classic New Mexican food. Our breakfast there was one of our favorites of our entire Route 66 road trip!

Barelas Coffee House interior

Just a couple of doors north of Barelas Coffee House is the former Garcia y Sanchez General Merchandise Store. 

Former Garcia y Sanchez General Merchandise Store in Barelas

The former Garcia y Sanchez store is at 1418 Barelas Road Southwest, adjacent to the intersection of 4^th Street Southwest and Barelas Road Southwest. It was built around 1890, which makes it one of the oldest buildings in Barelas.

On the northwest corner of 4^th Street Southwest and Barelas Road Southwest is the striking Joseph Baca Plaza.

Joseph Baca Plaza in Barelas

Next to the plaza is the Albuquerque Hispano Chamber of Commerce, with a statue of Dr. John Aragon, one of Barelas’s leading citizens.

Statue of Dr. John Aragon in front of the Albuquerque Hispano Chamber of Commerce

A couple of doors north of the Chamber of Commerce is the former Red Ball Café, with its round neon sign still on top.

Former Red Ball Cafe in Barelas

The Red Ball Café started life before 1922 as a home. It was converted to a restaurant and saw some art-deco-inspired additions through 1942. It was famous for its “Wimpy Burger” inspired by Popeye cartoons.

Another view of the Red Ball Cafe in Barelas

About 2 doors north of the Red Ball Café is the former Figaro Barber Shop at 1223 4^th Street Southwest.

Former Figaro Barber Shop in Barelas

A few buildings north of the barber shop is a really cool Streamline Moderne building at 1211 4^th Street Southwest.

Streamline Moderne home at 1211 4th Street Southwest in Barelas

The former Kandy’s Food Market is at 1200 4^th Street Southwest.

Former Kandy's Food Market in Barelas

Just north of Kandy’s is the former Navajo Super Service Station at 1124 4^th Street Southwest.

Former Navajo Super Service Station in Barelas

The unassuming building at 1115 4^th Street Southwest was once a Piggly Wiggly Market. Piggly Wigglys were the first supermarket chain in the United States.

Former Piggly Wiggly Market in Barelas

The former Arrow Super Market at 1101 4^th Street Southwest still has its original neon sign.

Former Arrow Super Market in Barelas

The beautiful building at 1100 4^th Street Southwest was built in 1931 as a Magnolia service station. The service bays on the right were added in 1942.

Former Magnolia Service Station in Barelas

The former Hi-Way Service Station is at 1024 4^th Street Southwest. I love the cool tile roof and the brackets under the eaves.

Former Hi-Way Service Station in Barelas

The building next door has beautiful murals on the front and side.

Mural on Southwest 4th Street in Barelas

Another mural on the side of the same building in Barelas

Across the street, at 1015 4^th Street Southwest, is the former Martin Pena Barber Shop.

Former Martin Pena Barber Shop in Barelas

The house behind the barber shop was built before 1902. The barber shop was added to the front in the 1940s.

 Two doors north of the barber shop, partly hidden behind trees and a fence, is the Garcia-Lopez House.

Garcia-Lopez House in Barelas

The Garcia-Lopez House, at 1003 4^th Street Southwest, was built around 1902-1908. It’s one of the oldest buildings on this street and typical of the homes built for railroad employees in those days.

On the next block, at 929 4^th Street Southwest, is the former Durand Motor Company.

Former Durand Motor Company in Barelas

The Durand Motor Company was built in 1940. The curved center roofline and tower are typical of the Streamline Moderne style popular at the time.

Across the street is the former Tasty Freeze Drive-In at 910 4^th Street Southwest. It was built between 1957 and 1962.

Former Tasty Freeze Drive-in in Barelas

Another view of the Tasty Freeze

The Tasty Freeze looks straight out of American Graffiti!

Our last stop was the former Mike’s Food Store, built in 1953.

Former Mike's Food Store

Mike’s, at 907 4^th Street Southwest, is a nice example of the International architectural style popular in the mid-20^th century. Notice that the bricks are stacked straight up and down rather than staggered, and everything is very rectangular.

We really enjoyed our walk through the Barelas district. As you can see, it doesn’t have fancy buildings—it was just a community of everyday people trying to serve both Route 66 travelers and their neighbors. It reminded me of Seligman, Arizona, and Amarillo's 6th Avenue. I hope someday enough shops reopen to attract more Route 66 visitors. In the meanwhile, we moved on to Albuquerque’s Central Avenue, which was Route 66 starting in 1937 and is a lot flashier! 

UPDATE: A reader noted that many of the buildings are "immaculately" restored and asked who did the restoration. The short answer is I don't know. The long answer: My two main sources for info on Barelas were the National Park Service, and the Society for Architectural Historians' Archipedia. (There are other online sources like Wikipedia, but they basically repeat what's in these two sources.) Both sources point to the 1993 construction of the National Hispanic Cultural Center a block south of Barelas Coffee House as spurring the revitalization of Barelas, but they're vague on where the resources came from or, even more important, who exactly organized and led the revitalization. I did find an organization called Barelas Community Coalition that seems to be working 

I was struck during our walking tour that the revitalization was clearly aimed at serving the community, not attracting Route 66 visitors. The Barelas Community Coalition aims to "limit the negative effects of development and gentrification." While a stronger focus on attracting Route 66 visitors could help drive Barelas' economic engine, it might also change the neighborhood's culture. Today Barelas gave us a more authentic experience of what a Route 66 neighborhood was once like before souvenir shops, museums, and visitor centers move in.

Santa Fe, New Mexico

Santa Fe, New Mexico, may be the oldest town or city on Route 66. It was settled by Native Americans in the 900s and became a Spanish colony in the early 1600s. Today the historic area’s adobe buildings are filled with trendy shops and restaurants. It’s a very different experience from the rest of Route 66!

The historic district of Santa Fe is centered around the Plaza, bordered by Palace Avenue, San Francisco Street, Lincoln Avenue, and Washington Avenue. 

The Plaza in Santa Fe, looking south

Along the north side of the Plaza is the Palace of the Governors.

Palace of the Governors in Santa Fe

We walked around the Plaza early in the morning but, later in during the day, there are vendors selling locally-made jewelry under the Palace’s overhang.

Across from the southeast corner of the Plaza is La Fonda on the Plaza at 100 East San Francisco Street.

La Fonda on the Plaza in Santa Fe

As you can see, it takes up a full city block! La Fonda was built in 1922 and became one of the famed Harvey House hotels. The interior was decorated by Mary Jane Colter, who also designed and decorated La Posada in Winslow, Arizona, and many of the historic buildings along the Grand Canyon’s South Rim. (I write more about the Harvey Houses and Mary Jane Colter in my post on Winslow, Arizona.)

We splurged on a lovely night at La Fonda. In the morning we had breakfast in the hotel’s beautiful La Plazuela restaurant in the lobby. The restaurant’s food and service were terrific, and it was a perfect way to start the day.

La Plazuela Restaurant in La Fonda

We wandered around the historic district and visited two historic churches in Santa Fe. Loretto Chapel is just a block south of La Fonda. It was built in the 1870s, and it’s known for its beautiful, unsupported (“floating”) spiral staircase to the choir loft.

Floating staircase in Loretto Chapel

The entire Loretto Chapel is beautiful.

Loretto Chapel interior

Note that a small fee is charged to enter Loretto Chapel.

Two blocks south of Loretto Chapel is San Miguel Chapel at 401 Old Santa Fe Trail.

San Miguel Chapel

It is considered by some to be the oldest church in the continental United States (excluding Puerto Rico). But I think that may be debatable. A church was built here around 1610. If it still existed, it would be the oldest church building in the continental United States (excluding Puerto Rico). But it was at least partly dismantled in 1640 and heavily damaged in the Pueblo Revolt in the late 1600s. This church was built in 1710. That’s definitely old, but there are several church buildings in the United States even older. For example, Trinity Church in Church Creek, Maryland, was built in 1675. Some sources say the 1710 church was built on the foundations of the 1610 church; others say the adobe walls of the 1610 church also survived .

So I'm not clear how much of the 1610 church has survived and, therefore, whether San Miguel should be considered the oldest church in the continental United States (excluding Puerto Rico). San Miguel appears on some lists of oldest United States churches but not others.

No matter its age, San Miguel is a beautiful little chapel.

Interior of San Miguel Chapel

Between Santa Fe and Albuquerque, the 1926-1936 alignment of Route 66 is mostly dirt fragments that are either on private property or impassable unless you’re feeling really adventurous. To at least get a sense of what the drive might have been like, we left Santa Fe on Cerrillos Road (NM 14). Most of the road is bordered with modern buildings, but we saw a few vintage motels along the way.

About 2 miles after crossing I-25, we turned right (west) on NM 599, then immediately turned left (south) on the East I-25 Frontage Road. In about 6 miles, the Frontage Road ends at NM 57, so we got on I-25 south.

There’s one Route 66 sight between Santa Fe and Albuquerque that we were hoping to see: the Santo Domingo Trading Post.

Santo Domingo Trading Post (from nps.gov)

Santo Domingo Trading Post was built in 1922 and is now listed on the National Register of Historic Places. It was almost destroyed by fire in 2001 but has now been rebuilt.

We took the Santo Domingo exit of I-25, turning left (north) on NM 22. In about 3 miles, we hoped to turn left (east) on Indian Service Route 88. But here we were met by a security guard who told us that the trading post (and the Kewa Pueblo or Santo Domingo Pueblo to the west) were closed by the Federal government to visitors because of COVID, and he couldn’t let us through. So we returned to I-25 and continued south toward Albuquerque.

In about 11 miles, we exited I-25 at NM 315, then turned left (southwest) on NM 313. NM 313 is also known as Camino Real (the King’s Highway), Pan American Central Highway…and the 1926 “alignment” of Route 66. On the northern edge of Albuquerque, NM 313—and Route 66—briefly become NM 556 and then become 4^th Street Northwest the rest of the way into downtown Albuquerque.