Williams, Arizona

In 1984, Williams became the last town in the United States to see Route 66 bypassed by an interstate highway. The National Park Service says that today Williams “still looks much as it did in the 1940s with its numerous shops, motels, and cafes. In both function and appearance, Williams embodies the spirit of historic Route 66.”

We took AZ 64 south from the Grand Canyon to Williams. Just northeast of town, AZ 64 becomes Route 66 through Williams. In downtown Williams, Route 66 splits into two one-way streets. The northern one runs west and the southern one runs east. What’s confusing is their names. I’ve seen both streets called Route 66 and Bill Williams Street, and I’ve also seen the north one called Railroad Avenue. In this post I’m going to refer to the northern, westbound street as Railroad Avenue and the southern, eastbound street as Route 66.

There’s a lot to see in the Williams Historic Business District, including classic motels, restaurants, gift shops and gas stations. Williams serves not only Route 66 travelers but also Grand Canyon visitors looking for an alternative to staying at the South Rim. There’s so much to see that we parked near Lewis Street, at the eastern end of the historic district, and took a walking tour.

On Route 66 between Lewis and Slagel Streets is Wild West Junction, which offers dinner and wild west shows. When we visited on a Sunday morning, of course it was closed.

Wild West Junction in Williams

Next door to Wild West Junction, on the northeast corner of Route 66 and Slagel Street, is Rod’s Steak House with a great neon sign. Unfortunately, it’s now closed.

Rod's Steak House in Williams

On the southwest corner of Route 66 and Slagel Street is the Grand Motel. Its glass block corner suggests that it was built early to mid-20^th century in either art deco or midcentury modern style.

Grand Motel in Williams

Next door to the Grand Motel is The Lodge on Route 66. This was once the Del Sue Motor Inn, built in 1936—maybe one of the oldest motels in Williams.

Former Del Sue Motor Inn in Williams

Across Route 66 from The Lodge on Route 66 is a great neon sign for the former Gateway Plaza Motel.

Gateway Plaza sign in Williams

Halfway between Taber Street and 1^st Street on Route 66 is an interesting-looking gift shop.

Gift shop in Williams

Next to the gift shop, on the northeast corner of Route 66 and 1^st Street, is Pete’s Route 66 Gas Station Museum.

Pete's Route 66 Gas Station Museum

Half a block past Pete’s on Route 66 is a wonderful old building with a great neon sign for Turquoise Tepee. Just past the building is a big neon sign for the Canyon Club.

Canyon Club sign near a great old building in Williams

Two doors past the Canyon Club sign, on the southeast corner of Route 66 and 2^nd Street, is the Grand Canyon Hotel, built in 1891.

Grand Canyon Hotel in Williams

The hotel was built right around the time that the Grand Canyon first became a tourist attraction. Visitors would have had to take a 12-hour stagecoach ride from Williams to the Grand Canyon’s South Rim until the Grand Canyon Railway opened in 1901.

On the northwest corner of Route 66 and 2^nd Street is a beautiful old building. I wonder if it was once a bank.

Another great old building in Williams

On the southwest corner of Route 66 and 2^nd Street is the Sultana Bar, with a cool neon sign and interesting pressed-concrete blocks.

Sultana Bar in Williams

A block further, on the southeast corner of Route 66 and 3^rd Street, is Cruisers Route 66 Café.

Cruisers Route 66 Cafe in Williams

Part of Cruisers was once a 1930s gas station.

Former 1930s gas station in Williams

On the northwest corner of Route 66 and 3^rd Street is the Babbitt-Polson Building, the only art deco building in Williams’ historic district. It has beautiful “zigzag” art deco trim.

Babbitt Polson Building in Williams

We turned north on 3^rd Street to Railroad Avenue, where we turned right (east). On the northwest corner of Railroad Avenue and 2^nd Street is the Williams Visitor Center. It’s in Williams’ first railroad depot, built by the Atlantic & Pacific Railroad in 1885.

Williams Visitor Center, in the former Atlantic & Pacific Railroad depot

If you go a block north on 2^nd Street, crossing the railroad tracks, on the left is the former Fray Marcos de Niza Hotel and Depot, one of the Harvey Houses serving the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad. (My post on Winslow, Arizona, has more on the Harvey Houses.) 

Former Fray Marcos de Niza Hotel & Depot in Williams (from Wikipedia)

The Fray Marcos de Niza was built in 1908 to serve AT&SF passengers including those traveling on the Grand Canyon Railway that opened in 1901. Today passengers can once again take the train to the Grand Canyon’s South Rim from this station.

Back at the southwest corner of Railroad Avenue and 2^nd Street is the Pine Country Restaurant.

Pine Country Restaurant in Williams

We read good things about the Pine Country Restaurant and wanted to get breakfast there, but we visited on a Sunday morning and the wait was too long for us, so we ate elsewhere.

Between 2^nd and 1^st Streets on Railroad Avenue is the Red Garter Bed and Breakfast. It was built in 1897 and, yes, it was once a bordello. I love that round entryway!

Red Garter Bed & Breakfast in Williams

To the left of the Red Garter on Railroad Avenue is the Canyon Club with a great sign and round window. We saw its huge neon sign earlier on Route 66.

Canyon Club in Williams

You can see that there’s lots to explore in Williams! After a great morning walk, we headed west on Route 66 to rejoin I-40 for our next stops: Ash Fork and the iconic Seligman, Arizona.

Grand Canyon, Arizona

The Grand Canyon is not on Route 66, but many Route 66 travelers detoured to see it. The detour is absolutely worth it! We think the Grand Canyon is an essential stop for anyone traveling through this part of the United States, including on Route 66. That’s why I’m including this post in my Experiencing Route 66 blog.

The Grand Canyon can be experienced from its North Rim or South Rim. Most people visit the South Rim, which is much closer to Route 66 (the North Rim is about a 4-hour drive from Flagstaff). 

I suspect most people who visit the Grand Canyon’s South Rim get there from Williams, Arizona, either driving north on AZ 64 or taking the Grand Canyon Railway. We took a sort of back-door entrance to the South Rim, driving north from Flagstaff on US 89 about 50 miles to Cameron, Arizona. We left Flagstaff’s forests behind and saw desert and beautiful red cliffs. In Cameron, we turned west on AZ 64 about 30 miles to the park’s east entrance. (Note that there is an admission fee to enter the park.) From here it’s about 25 miles to Grand Canyon Village. There are several turnoffs along the way to see views of the Grand Canyon.

The first stop, less than two miles past the park entrance, is Desert View Point.

Desert View Point view of the Grand Canyon

One of the treats to see here is Desert View Watchtower.

Desert View Watchtower overlooking the Grand Canyon

Desert View Watchtower was designed by Mary Jane Colter to resemble Pueblo towers in this region. It was built in 1932.

This stop has a convenience store and rest rooms, both welcome after the two-hour drive from Flagstaff!

We did not stop at every viewpoint. Our next stop was Moran Point.

Moran Point view of the Grand Canyon

We next stopped at Grandview Point.

Grandview Point view of the Grand Canyon

The Grand Canyon’s first hotel was built at Grandview Point in 1897. It was reached by a 12-hour stagecoach ride from Flagstaff. The hotel prospered for only four years. In 1901, the Atcheson, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad created the Grand Canyon Railway from a freight line from Williams to Grand Canyon Village in 1901. The railroad hired the Fred Harvey Company to provide hotel accommodations along the rim of the Grand Canyon. Several structures were designed by Mary Jane Colter, who designed a number of Harvey Houses along the AT&SF Railroad, as I discuss in my blog post on Winslow, Arizona.

Today Grand Canyon Village is still the center of sights and activities on the Grand Canyon’s South Rim. A 13-mile Rim Trail provides plenty of jaw-dropping views of the Grand Canyon. Here are two of our favorites.

View of the Grand Canyon from the Rim Trail

Another view of the Grand Canyon from the Rim Trail

As we walked along the Rim Trail, we also checked out the historic district of Grand Canyon Village. At the east end of the historic district is Verkamp’s Visitor Center.

Verkamp's in Grand Canyon Village

Verkamp’s was built by John Verkamp as a craft and curio shop in 1906. The shop was operated by his family for over 100 years. The National Park Service bought out the family’s contract in 2008 and has converted the building into a visitor center.

West of Verkamp’s is Hopi House.

Hopi House in Grand Canyon Village

Hopi House opened in 1905 as a Native American crafts gift shop. It was the first building designed by Mary Jane Colter. She modeled it after regional Hopi buildings. 

Just west of Hopi House is the historic district’s crown jewel: El Tovar Hotel, built in 1905.

El Tovar Hotel in Grand Canyon Village

East side of El Tovar Hotel (entrance on left)

The interior of El Tovar was decorated by Mary Jane Colter.

Lobby of El Tovar Hotel

We treated ourselves to breakfast and lunch in the beautiful El Tovar Dining Room. (Reservations are required for lunch and dinner.)

El Tovar Dining Room

The dining room overlooks the Rim Trail and the Grand Canyon

View from El Tovar Dining Room

Behind El Tovar is the Santa Fe Railway Station.

Santa Fe Railway Station in Grand Canyon Village

The railway station was built in 1909 and is one of only about a dozen log railroad stations in the United States. The Grand Canyon Railway stopped service in 1968, but in 1989 the trains were restored and service restarted.

Grand Canyon Railway train

West of El Tovar are Kachina Lodge and Thunderbird Lodge. They were both built in 1968, and it’s interesting to compare their mid-century styles against those of earlier buildings on the Grand Canyon rim.

Just west of Thunderbird Lodge is Bright Angel Lodge.

Bright Angel Lodge south entrance

Bright Angel Lodge north entrance

Left to right: Bright Angel Lodge, Buckey's Cabin, and Lookout Studio

Bright Angel Lodge, opened in 1935, was designed by Mary Jane Colter as a less expensive alternative to El Tovar. Today the Bright Angel History Room features an exhibit on the Harvey Houses and the Harvey Girls who worked in them. 

Harvey House exhibit in Bright Angel Lodge History Room

The History Room also has a fireplace designed by Colter with rocks representing the Grand Canyon’s strata from the Colorado River on up.

Fireplace in the Bright Angel Lodge History Room

West of Bright Angel Lodge is Buckey O’Neill’s Cabin.

Buckey O'Neill's Cabin in Grand Canyon Village

Buckey O’Neill built the cabin for himself in the 1890s. It is now the oldest structure in the park and has been in continuous use since it was built. Today its rooms are available for lodging through Bright Angel Lodge.

West of Buckey’s cabin is another Mary Jane Colter masterpiece: Lookout Studio, built in 1914.

Lookout Studio in Grand Canyon Village

Like Hopi House and Desert View Watchtower, Colter designed Lookout Studio to look like the stone structures in regional pueblos. But I think she accomplished more. Lookout Studio reflects the terrain of the Grand Canyon so well that it seems to be part of the Grand Canyon rather than a building on top of it.

Another view of Lookout Studio

Colter intended Lookout Studio to be a place to view and photograph the Grand Canyon, with several porches and patios. The views here are of course spectacular.

Lookout Studio and its view of the Grand Canyon

West of Lookout Studio is Kolb Studio.

Kolb Studio along the Rim Trail in Grand Canyon Village

Kolb Studio was built by brothers Emery and Ellsworth Kolb in 1904 and expanded over the next 20 years. it  was their home, a photography studio, and a shop where they sold photographs and, for 60 years, Emery showed films they’d taken of the Grand Canyon.

If you decide to detour off Route 66 to visit the Grand Canyon, the National Park Service’s website is full of resources to plan your visit.

While you could see the Grand Canyon in a day trip from Williams, I really encourage staying overnight if you can. This lets you see how the light changes the views over the day and maybe experience a sunrise or sunset view. Another benefit of staying overnight is that you can enjoy the park in the morning or evening, when it’s quieter and more peaceful. When we walked part of the Rim Trail after breakfast, some stretches were almost deserted.

Rim Trail east of the Grand Canyon Village historic district

If you decide to stay overnight in Grand Canyon Village, note that the hotels fill far in advance—you may have to book a room as much as a year in advance. We booked our room for an October visit several months in advance, and the only hotel with rooms still available was the Maswik Lodge, a huge complex south of Bright Angel Lodge. Rooms were available for only a few dates in October, so we planned our Route 66 road trip by first booking our Maswik Lodge room and then building the rest of our Route 66 trip around those dates!

We spent two nights in Grand Canyon Village, which let us enjoy a relaxing day exploring the South Rim and Grand Canyon Village. It was a lovely break from Route 66 road tripping. The next morning we took AZ 64 south to Williams, Arizona, to continue our Route 66 adventure.

Flagstaff, Arizona

We really enjoyed our visit to Flagstaff. It’s a thriving city that has enthusiastically embraced its Route 66 heritage, so there’s a lot to see here.

We drove into Flagstaff from Winona on US 89, which was Route 66 until 1947 and is still called Route 66 here. Our first stop was the Museum Club at 3404 East Route 66.

Museum Club in Flagstaff

The Museum Club is a classic Route 66 roadhouse, built in 1931. It may be the largest log cabin in the Southwest. We loved the split branch that frames the doorway.

If you are planning to drive to the Grand Canyon from Flagstaff via US 89, there are very few places to get something to eat between here and Grand Canyon Village. We would be heading to the Grand Canyon after Flagstaff, so we stopped for lunch at Miz Zips at 2924 East Route 66.

Sign for Miz Zips on Route 66 in Flagstaff 

Miz Zips in Flagstaff

Miz Zips is a classic Route 66 restaurant, open since 1952, with a menu of mostly breakfast items and sandwiches. We got a BLT and a patty melt. Both were great!

Interior of Miz Zips

There are a lot of old motels along this stretch of Route 66. One is the Western Hills Motel at 1580 East Route 66.

Western Hills Motel neon sign

The Western Hills Motel was built in 1951. I’ve read that its (restored) neon sign is the oldest in Flagstaff, but older motels downtown have neon signs that I think were installed in the 1930s.

A block past the Western Hills Motel is the Route 66 Dog Haus.

Route 66 Dog Haus (from FlagstaffArizona.org)

Signer-songwriter Jackson Browne was driving through Flagstaff when he saw a girl in a Toyota pickup truck exiting this restaurant’s driveway…and slowing down to take a look at him. At the suggestion of Eagles member Glenn Frey, Browne incorporated the memory into their song “Take It Easy,” changing the line to one about a girl in a flatbed Ford. The song was the Eagles’ first #1 hit. It mentioned Winslow, Arizona, rather than Flagstaff. That one word changed the town of Winslow forever, as I explain in my post on Winslow.

A mile past the Dog Haus is downtown Flagstaff. This is a historic district, and there’s a lot to see here within a few blocks. So we parked at the Visitor Center and walked. (The Visitor Center parking lot is one of very few places along Route 66 where you must pay to park.)

I’ve mentioned in other posts such as the one on Gallup that Route 66 runs alongside railroads throughout much of the Southwest. That’s true in Flagstaff--the railroad runs along the south side of Route 66 here. The Flagstaff Visitor Center at 1 East Route 66 is in the city’s railroad depot, built in 1926—the same year that Route 66 was designated.

Flagstaff Visitor Center, as seen from the 1934 alignment of Route 66

Until 1934, Route 66 ran behind the depot, on the other side of the railroad tracks. When Route 66 was moved to its current “alignment” through Flagstaff, the road was re-graded, leaving the depot a few feet below street level.

On the west side of the Visitor Center, a huge Route 66 shield has been painted on the pavement.

West side of Flagstaff Visitor Center

We started our walking tour by first exploring the 1926-1934 alignment of Route 66. We walked west past the Route 66 shield at the Visitor Center. Then we turned left (south) on Beaver Street. We could immediately see a huge neon sign for the Motel DuBeau.

Sign for Motel DuBeau

One of the hallmarks of Flagstaff is its huge neon signs. They were erected by hotels and motels in a 1930s “sign war” to attract rail passengers and Route 66 travelers. 

We crossed the railroad tracks carefully—a train comes through every few minutes! In a block we reached Phoenix Avenue. It’s hard to believe that this little side street was Route 66 from 1926 to 1934. The original “alignment” of Route 66 continues on Phoenix Avenue a block west, then turns left on Mikes Pike for about 3 blocks, where it joins the newer Route 66 alignment.

Instead of turning west, we turned east on Phoenix Avenue. The Motel DuBeau is here, under its huge neon sign, at 19 West Phoenix Avenue. It was built in 1926--the same year that Route 66 was established. It was the first motel in Flagstaff and one of the first in the country.

Part of Motel DuBeau in Flagstaff

Another part of the Motel DuBeau in Flagstaff

A block east of the Motel DuBeau, we were able to look up Leroux Street and see the south side of the Visitor Center facing the railroad. It’s a really beautiful building!

View of the south side of Flagstaff Visitor Center

On the southeast corner of Phoenix Avenue and Leroux Street is the Motel Sierra Vista with a beautiful neon sign. (It is not marked on Google Maps.)

Motel Sierra Vista in Flagstaff

I found a good article in Route 66 times speculating on when the Motel Sierra Vista was built. I also read that it once had a big neon sign like the Motel DuBeau.

A couple of doors past the Motel Sierra Vista on Phoenix Avenue is another wonderful old building. I couldn't find any information on it, but I love the stone.

Building on Phoenix Avenue in Flagstaff

On the other side of Phoenix Avenue is a huge mural called “Mother Myth.”

"Mother Myth" mural on Phoenix Avenue in Flagstaff

On the southwest corner of Phoenix Avenue and San Francisco Street is another huge neon sign, this one for the Downtowner Motel. (It is not marked on Google Maps.)

Downtowner Motel neon sign

Note that the sign also says “Nackard.” J. K. Nackard opened the Downtowner Auto Court around 1919-1921 (sources give varying dates). 

Part of the former Downtowner Motel

The Downtowner was expanded a few times in the 1920s and 1930s, eventually going halfway down the block, including the building pictured below.

Another part of the former Downtowner Motel

We had a hard time making out the neon “ghost sign” on the roof, but I found a close-up of it on Flickr.  If you can study the Flickr photo without getting a headache (!), you may be able to make out two ghost signs on top of each other. One says Downtowner in block letters; the other says Nackard Inn in script letters. It’s easier to see the ghost signs for Motel and Sensible Rates. In the 1940s or 1950s, the Downtowner Auto Court was renamed the Nackard Inn. Later it was renamed the Downtowner Motel. I’m guessing that "Nackard” was added to the Downtowner’s huge neon sign when the motel was renamed the Nackard Inn.

One last piece of trivia: The Nackard Inn appeared in the 1957 Green Book as a motel open to African-American travelers.

We turned back north on San Francisco Street, which is also pre-1934 Route 66. At the railroad tracks (where we again watched carefully for trains!) we could see another, smaller railroad depot on the right.

Flagstaff railroad depot

The pre-1934 Route 66 alignment ends at the current Route 66. We continued north on San Francisco Street another block to a hotel with yet another enormous neon sign: the Hotel Monte Vista It was built in 1926 and is at 100 North San Francisco Street.

Hotel Monte Vista in Flagstaff

Across San Francisco Street from the Hotel Monte Vista, on the northwest corner of San Francisco Street and Aspen Avenue, is the beautiful Babbitt Building. It was built in 1888 as a general store.

Babbitt Building in Flagstaff

We turned left (west) on Aspen and walked one block to the striking Weatherford Hotel on the southwest corner of Aspen Avenue and Leroux Street.

Weatherford Hotel in Flagstaff

The Weatherford Hotel was built in 1900, damaged by fire in 1929, and restored in the 1970s.

We turned right (south) on Leroux Street. There are more great buildings along Leroux Street. Notice the cool neon sign for Alpine Pizza.

Great buildings and a neon sign on Leroux Street in Flagstaff

At the corner of Leroux Street and Route 66 is the McMillan Building, also known as the Bank Building. It was built in 1887 as a bank and hotel.

McMillan Building, also known as Bank Building, in Flagstaff

You can see why we really enjoyed our visit to Flagstaff. There are great old buildings and interesting Route 66 history here. Downtown Flagstaff is thriving. When we come back, we’ll try to have lunch at one of the many restaurants downtown.

From Flagstaff we did not continue along Route 66. We decided instead to visit the Grand Canyon, something many Route 66 travelers have done over the decades. So we backtracked on Route 66 and headed north on US 89 toward the east entrance to the Grand Canyon’s South Rim. We rejoined Route 66 in Williams, Arizona.