Sunday, November 13, 2022

The Old Santa Fe Trail from Las Vegas, New Mexico, to Santa Fe

The original 1926 "alignment" of Route 66 between Las Vegas, New Mexico, and Santa Fe followed the old Santa Fe Trail. The Santa Fe Trail ran 1200 miles from Missouri to Santa Fe and was used from 1821 until 1880, when a railroad to Santa Fe was completed. Today much of the Santa Fe Trail and the original Route 66 between Las Vegas, New Mexico, and Santa Fe are buried under I-25. But there are enough fragments and beautiful scenery to make this a great drive.

We left Las Vegas, New Mexico, in April 2022 on the Romeroville Frontage Road that runs along the east side of I-25. At the I-25 interchange in Romeroville, we crossed I-25, then turned left (southwest) on Frontage Road 2116, which is the old Santa Fe Trail and the earliest 1926 “alignment” of Route 66.

About 4 miles later, near Tecolote, we ran into a sort of cattle traffic jam!

Cattle on Route 66 near Tecolote, New Mexico

At Bernal, about 4 miles past Tecolote, we turned left to cross I-25, then turned right on Route B26A, which was the Santa Fe Trail and the original 1926 Route 66. Here the road is unpaved but easy to drive if it hasn’t rained recently.

The original, unpaved Route 66 west of Bernal, New Mexico
More of the original, unpaved Route 66 west of Bernal, New Mexico

In about 3 miles, Route B26A rejoins Frontage Road 2116. Here the Frontage Road is NOT the original Route 66. To travel on a bit of unpaved fragment of the original Route 66, about 3 miles after rejoining Frontage Road 2116, we turned left (south) on Route B410 and took an underpass under I-25.

I-25 underpass at San Jose, New Mexico

This fragment of the original Route 66 runs through the village of San Jose and dead ends at a bridge over the Pecos River.

Former Route 66 bridge in San Jose, New Mexico

The bridge was built in 1921 and once carried Route 66 traffic. It’s now closed.

We turned around and drove back through San Jose. It’s easy to imagine what it was like to drive Route 66 here almost 100 years ago.

Original Route 66 through San Jose, New Mexico

In San Jose, we passed San Jose Church, built of adobe in 1826.

San Jose Church

We turned left (west) on Frontage Road 2116, which here IS part of the 1926 alignment of Route 66. In less than a mile, the Frontage Road moves to the south side of I-25. In about 10 miles, we reached the town of Rowe. Here the Frontage Road forks. We took the right fork and crossed I-25, then turned left (north) on NM 63. This is again the original 1926 alignment of Route 66.

In about 3 miles, we reached Pecos National Historical Park. Pecos was once a major transportation hub for Native Americans in this region. Today there are a lot of impressive ruins to see.

Ruins at Pecos National Historical Park

We took the park’s easy 1¼ mile loop trail to see the ruins. The park rangers at the Visitor Center suggested purchasing a guidebook for a dollar, and it was a good investment—we learned a lot about what we were looking at.

The Spanish began arriving in the 1600s and attempted to convert the Native Americans and use them as labor. The Pecos natives revolted in 1680, destroying the church the Spanish had built, but the Spanish built another in 1717. By the 1780s, disease and Comanche raids had pretty much wiped out the city, and in the 1830s it was abandoned.

Today the most impressive ruin is of the 1717 church built by Spanish missionaries. One of the wayside signs made it easy to compare what the church once looked like against the ruins today.

1717 church ruins in Pecos National Historical Park
 

There are also remains of the complex that once surrounded the church.

Ruins of the complex around the church

After our visit to Pecos National Historic Park, we continued north on NM 63 to the present-day town of Pecos. Here we turned left (west) on NM 50 to continue on the original Route 66 alignment. In about 3 or 4 miles, we passed the site of Pigeon Ranch. Pigeon Ranch was once an important stagecoach stop on the Santa Fe Trail—the largest stop between Las Vegas, New Mexico, and Santa Fe.

PIGEON RANCH IN 1880

Pigeon Ranch in 1880 (from LegendsofAmerica.com)

Pigeon Ranch lost its business as a stagecoach stop in 1880, when the railroad over Glorieta Pass was completed, and a train depot was built in the town of Glorieta two miles away. In the 1920s it became a Route 66 tourist attraction.

Postcard of Pigeon Ranch (from CardCow.com)

Pigeon Ranch as a tourist attraction lasted only a few years until the newer Route 66 alignment was built well south of here in 1937. Much of the ranch was destroyed when I-25 was built a few hundred feet to the south. Today all that’s left is a small adobe building next to the highway.

Pigeon Ranch today (from Google Maps)

This building was part of a house built in the 1880s.

At Glorieta, we had to get back on I-25. In less than a mile, I-25 crosses the Glorieta Pass.

Glorieta Pass (from PecosNewMexico.com)

Glorieta Pass is the highest point on the 1926 alignment of Route 66. During the Civil War, Confederates launched a huge battle to control this pass. It was the only point south of Colorado where the Rocky Mountains could be crossed. So if Confederates could control this pass, they could control the west. But they lost. Today the pass is so peaceful and wooded that it’s hard to believe a battle was fought here.

At the Glorieta Pass, I-25 turns southwest. In about 4 miles, we exited at Canoncito, then made quick right and left turns to get on Old Las Vegas Highway (NM 300) towards Santa Fe. In about 10 miles, we turned right on Old Pecos Trail (NM 466). In about a mile, NM 466 and Old Pecos Trail split. We turned right to stay on the Old Pecos Trail. It soon merged into Old Santa Fe Trail, which we followed into downtown Santa Fe.

Sunday, October 9, 2022

Montoya, Santa Rosa, and Las Vegas, New Mexico

There are two very different Route 66s in New Mexico: the curving 1926 Route 66 and the straight 1937 Route 66. Between Tucumcari and Las Vegas, New Mexico, we experienced some of both.

From downtown Tucumcari, we took Business I-40 to I-40. We then stayed in I-40 about 5 miles to the next exit (Palomas). We turned left to cross I-40, then right (west) onto the Frontage Road. This stretch of Route 66 was built in 1933. In about 3 ½ miles, Route 66 goes under I-40.

I-40 underpass near Palomas, New Mexico

Be careful! The underpass may be flooded if it’s rained recently.

In about 4 more miles along this old stretch of Route 66, we reached Montoya, another ghost town. Here we saw the remains of the 1918 Richardson Store.

Remains of the Richardson Store in Montoya, New Mexico

Sadly, the roof collapsed in 2014.

We saw the ruins of another old store here.

Store ruins in Montoya, New Mexico

The north frontage road deadends after Montoya, so just past the Richardson Store, we crossed I-40 to get on the south frontage road. This is another stretch of Route 66 with pavement that goes back to the 1930s.

Route 66 near Cuervo, New Mexico

In about 5 miles, the south frontage road crosses I-40 and becomes the north frontage road. In Cuervo, the frontage road merges into I-40. We exited I-40 at US 84 on the eastern end of Santa Rosa. We turned right to stay on Route 66, which is known here as Business I-40, US 84, Will Rogers Drive, and Historic US Route 66.

It’s easy to tell that Santa Rosa was once a haven for Route 66 travelers. There are a lot of old motels and restaurants along here. We loved the iconic sign at the former Lettie’s at 1701 Route 66.

Former Lettie's Restaurant in Santa Rosa, New Mexico

We also loved the beautiful neon sign at the Sun & Sand Motel and Restaurant.

Sign at the Sun & Sand Motel & Restaurant in Santa Rosa, NM

At the Sun & Sand, we turned left (south) on Lake Drive to see Park Lake Historic District.

Park Lake in Santa Rosa NM

The park around Santa Rosa Lake was built during the 1930s Depression as a Work Projects Administration (WPA) project to employ local residents. It became a pleasant stop for those traveling on Route 66. But when we visited in April, the lake was drained--it's filled in summertime. 

Santa Rosa Park Lake Historic District in April, out of season

Here's what it looks like in summertime.

Santa Rosa Lake Historic District in summertime (from Davy Delgado)

After about a half mile on Lake Drive, we turned left (east) on Blue Hole Road to see Santa Rosa’s most famous attraction: the Blue Hole.

The Blue Hole in Santa Rosa NM

Santa Rosa is unusual in this part of the country for having a network of underground springs. Here they emerge, with crystal clear, beautiful blue water.

Another view of the Blue Hole

When we visited early on a Sunday morning, there were already a lot of scuba divers getting ready to explore the Blue Hole.

After seeing the Blue Hole, we returned to Route 66, merging into I-40 on the west side of Santa Rosa. About 15 miles west of Santa Rosa, Route 66 splits into two very different “alignments.” The original 1926 alignment followed the Ozark Trails Highway. On a map, the Ozark Trails Highway looked like an S laid on its side, heading north toward Las Vegas, New Mexico, west to Santa Fe, south to Albuquerque, south of Albuquerque to Los Lunas, then west. After Route 66 was designated, the state of New Mexico immediately began planning a straighter “alignment” from Santa Rosa to Albuquerque. That alignment opened in 1937 and is basically where I-40 is today.

New Mexico's two Route 66 alignments (from Route66Roadtrip.com)

We decided to take what’s now known as the Santa Fe Loop of Route 66, so we exited at US 84 and headed north for 41 miles. Actually the first 16 miles or so of US 84 was not Route 66. Route 66 was on what’s now a dirt track through private property. But US 84 is pretty close, and it becomes the original Route 66 in Dilia. The scenery here is beautiful.

1926 "alignment" of Route 66 near Dilia, NM

US 84 ends at I-25. Here Route 66 turned southwest toward Santa Fe. But a lot of Route 66 travelers detoured about 6 miles north to Las Vegas, New Mexico (no, not THAT Las Vegas), and we did too. We took the I-25 frontage road, but you could also take I-25.

We had dinner at the Hillcrest Restaurant at 1106 Grand Avenue.

Hillcrest Restaurant in Las Vegas NM

It’s a great midcentury restaurant with a classic vibe.

We spent the night at the Castaneda Hotel at 524 Railroad Avenue.

Castenada Hotel in Las Vegas NM

It’s one of the famous Harvey Houses built by Fred Harvey to serve train travelers. (I write more about Harvey Houses in my post on Winslow, Arizona.) This one was built in 1898 in Mission Revival style. If you think you’re looking at the rear of the hotel, you’re right—the hotel was designed to face the train tracks, not the street.

View of Castenada Hotel from the train tracks

Today the hotel is owned by the same group that owns La Posada in Winslow, Arizona, and it’s been beautifully restored.

Castenada Hotel lobby

We had a really comfortable night here.

Our room in the Castenada Hotel

The next morning we had a great breakfast at Charlie’s Spic & Span Bakery & Café at 715 Douglas Avenue.

Charlie's Spic & Span Bakery & Cafe in Las Vegas NM

After breakfast, we saw a bit of Las Vegas. The train depot, next door to the Castaneda, is now a visitor center.

Las Vegas NM train depot, now a visitor center

Downtown on the Plaza (what some other towns might call the town square) is the Plaza Hotel at 230 Plaza Street. It's owned by the same group as the Castaneda Hotel and La Posada in Winslow.

Plaza Hotel in Las Vegas NM

There are plenty of other beautiful buildings to explore here. The film No Country for Old Men was filmed here, and several years ago we did a thorough tour of the film’s locations.

We left Las Vegas by taking Business I-25 out of town, crossing I-25, then turning right (south) on the I-25 Frontage Road toward the many sights along the old Santa Fe Trail toward Santa Fe.

Sunday, October 2, 2022

Tucumcari, New Mexico

We’ve found Route 66 to be a surprisingly intense road trip—you’re always on the lookout for the next turn and the next sight—so we think it’s a good idea to plan a periodic “R&R” (rest and relaxation) day to catch your breath. We chose Tucumcari as an R&R stop—a place to spend two nights rather than one—and we were really glad we did! There’s a lot to see here, but we also had time to simply relax. Everyone we met was super nice, and we were glad to support this town by staying a bit longer here.

Route 66 runs through Tucumcari on Tucumcari Boulevard (Business I-40), which has an amazing collection of vintage gas stations, motels, and restaurants. Here are the ones we enjoyed seeing, from east to west.

A rehabilitated Polly gas station is at 1823 E Tucumcari Boulevard.

Rehabilitated Polly gas station in Tucumcari

At 1416 East Tucumcari Boulevard is the former Mesa Court, most recently Kiva RV Park but now closed.

Former Mesa Court (east building) in Tucumcari
Former Mesa Court (west building) in Tucumcari

These buildings have beautiful Art Deco features, and I hope someone can restore them and the sign someday!

The Palomino Motel at 1215 East Tucumcari Boulevard has a beautiful neon sign.

Palomino Motel in Tucumcari

At 1201 East Tucumcari Boulevard is a former Texaco station. It’s now the Trade Station, a gift shop with a great Texaco mural.

The Trade Station, a former Texaco station in Tucumcari

At the Trade Station, we saw a sign for Watson’s BBQ.

Sign for Watson's BBQ in Tucumcari

We walked about 2½ blocks north on Lake Street to Watson’s BBQ, inside Tucumcari Ranch Supply at 502 South Lake Street.

Tucumcari Ranch Supply

We had a good lunch here.

Watson's BBQ in Tucumcari

Back on Tucumcari Boulevard, Del’s Restaurant, a Tucumcari institution, is at 1202 East Tucumcari Boulevard. We had a great dinner here.

Del's Restaurant in Tucumcari

The closed Apache Motel at 1106 East Tucumcari Boulevard has a sign that would look great when restored.

Apache Motel sign in Tucumcari

Kix on 66 is at 1102 East Tucumcari Boulevard. It’s in a former Denny’s.

Kix on 66 in Tucumcari

Breakfast at Kix was so good that we ate here twice! The service was super-friendly.

Interior of Kix on 66

Roadrunner Lodge Motel is at 1023 East Tucumcari Boulevard. One section was built in 1947 and another in 1964.

Roadrunner Lodge in Tucumcari

TeePee Curios at 924 East Tucumcari Boulevard is a Route 66 icon. It was originally a Gulf station built in 1944.

Tee Pee Curios in Tucumcari

Check who greeted me behind the counter! I had a great time browsing for souvenirs here.

Interior of Tee Pee Curios

The Route 66 Welcome Center and Gift Shop is at 901 East Tucumcari Boulevard.

Route 66 Welcome Center in Tucumcari

Flora May, owner of the Welcome Center, is a delight and great about answering my questions. (Note that there is another Visitor Center, operated by the local chamber of commerce, at 404 West Tucumcari Boulevard. It’s closed on weekends, which is when we visited.)

At 815 Tucumcari Boulevard is one of the most famous sights along Route 66: the iconic Blue Swallow Motel.  

The Blue Swallow Motel in Tucumcari

The Blue Swallow's iconic neon sign was added in the 1950s when air conditioning was installed. The original neon sign has been beautifully preserved.

The Blue Swallow's original neon sign

We so much wanted to stay here that the Blue Swallow was the first thing we booked when we planned our trip. Then we booked the rest of our trip around our stay here. We were not disappointed! This is a beautifully preserved motel, built in 1939 or 1942 (sources give varying dates). Dawn and Rob, the owners, couldn’t be nicer. Rob gave us a quick tour when we checked in. We loved our chenille bedspreads!

Our room at the Blue Swallow

Our room’s garage had a great Route 66 mural.

Mural in one of the Blue Swallow's garages

The 1959 Motel Safari is at 772 East Tucumcari Boulevard. It gets terrific reviews and was our second choice in case we couldn’t get into the Blue Swallow.

Motel Safari in Tucumcari (from TripAdvisor.com)

The building with a Vista sign at 424 East Tucumcari Boulevard is the former Swift’s Shell station.

Former Swift's Shell station in Tucumcari

The Americana Motel at 406 East Tucumcari Boulevard has a great neon sign.

Americana Motel in Tucumcari

Boulevard Cleaners at 405 East Tucumcari Boulevard has a cool “wash lady” neon sign that was installed in 1990.

Boulevard Cleaners in Tucumcari

A very cool Streamline Moderne building is at 213 East Tucumcari Boulevard.

213 Tucumcari Boulevard

At the intersection of Tucumcari Boulevard and 1st Street is La Cita at 820 South 1st Street.

La Cita Restaurant in Tucumcari

We had a great lunch here with friendly service. My taco salad was the best I had on the whole trip!

Taco salad at La Cita

At 202 West Tucumcari Boulevard, the Route 66 Smoke Shop was once the Waterfield Chevron.

Former Waterfield Chevron in Tucumcari

The former Adcock’s Phillips 66, with a mid-century gull-wing canopy, is at 302 West Tucumcari Boulevard. It’s now a tire store.

Former Adcock's Phillips 66 in Tucumcari

On the west side of Tucumcari, several old gas stations have been spruced up but not yet truly restored. They’re still fun to see. The former Massey’s Malco station at 392 West Tucumcari Boulevard is now a tribute to Whiting Brothers’ stations.

Former Massey's Malco station in Tucumcari

The Pow Wow Restaurant and Lizard Lounge is at 801 West Tucumcari Boulevard. We ate dinner here one night, and the inside is like a time capsule.

Pow Wow Restaurant in Tucumcari

The former Jim’s Texaco station is at 924 West Tucumcari Boulevard.

Former Jim's Texaco in Tucumcari

The former Gene’s Shell station at 1016 West Tucumcari Boulevard is now a tribute to Magnolia gas stations.

Former Gene's Shell station in Tucumcari

Just before Gene's is a very old unrestored building. I couldn’t find out anything about its history.

Mystery building on West Tucumcari Boulevard

Just past the former Gene's gas station is the former Rigdon’s Enco station. It's now a tribute to Esso gas stations.

Former Rigdon's Enco station in Tucumcari

Then there’s the New Mexico Route 66 Museum, with a great Route 66 sculpture out front.

Sculpture outside the New Mexico Route 66 Museum

There is so much to see in Tucumcari that we didn’t see it all in a two-day visit! There are dozens of murals--we didn't see them all. We didn't visit the Mesalands Dinosaur Museum, one of the best museums along Route 66, the New Mexico Route 66 Museum, or the Tucumcari Railroad Museum in the former 1926 Spanish Mission-style train depot. And we didn’t explore downtown Tucumcari along North 1st Street, other than to see the 1939 Art Deco Odeon Theater at 123 South 2nd Street.

Odeon Theater in Tucumcari

So, even after two nights in Tucumcari, we left with some regret to start toward the Santa Fe loop of Route 66.