Western Arizona and Eastern New Mexico

Between Gallup, New Mexico, and Holbrook, Arizona, the scenery along Route 66 becomes truly breathtaking. The highlight of this stretch is the Petrified Forest National Park, which are so incredible that I’m covering it in a separate blog post.

We took NM 118 out of Gallup, New Mexico. In about 6 miles, in the almost non-existent town of Defiance, New Mexico, NM 118 turns left (south), crosses I-40, then turns right (west) on Rocky Point Road. We missed the first turn and realized our mistake when we encountered another of the trains we first noticed in Gallup.

Trains near Defiance, New Mexico

NM 118 continues to the Arizona state line. This section of Route 66 was built in 1914 as part of the National Old Trails Highway. It was first paved in 1930. This is where the scenery becomes truly beautiful, with yellow cliffs along the road, and the ever-present train tracks to the south.

Route 66 near Defiance, New Mexico (Note the train tracks on the left.)

Right on the New Mexico-Arizona state line is a Route 66 icon: the Yellowhorse Trading Post.

Yellowhorse Trading Post on the New Mexico-Arizona state line

When I say right on the state line, I mean it! There’s a line on the floor of the Trading Post marking the state line. The hole in the cliff inspired the Wheel Well Motel in the Pixar movie Cars. The hole is fenced off, so you can’t go in it.

We try to support as many local gift shops and visitor centers as we can, even if all we buy is a bottle of water. When I asked the friendly owner for a bottle of water, he gave me one free! His daughter makes jewelry from local gems, and I bought a lovely pair of earrings for a friend of mine.

If you are driving Route 66 during Daylight Saving Time, the time changes at the Arizona border, because Arizona does not observe Daylight Saving Time. It will be one hour earlier in Arizona than in New Mexico. (I didn’t think to ask the Yellowhorse owner which time he observes!)

About half a mile past the Yellowhorse Trading Post is the small town of Lupton, Arizona. Over the decades there have been many shops along the cliffs selling tribal crafts. Many are now abandoned, but some are still operating.

One of tribal craft shops along the cliffs of Lupton, Arizona 

At Lupton, we got on I-40. The frontage roads here are not Route 66, so we didn’t bother with them. In about 8 miles, we exited I-40 at Houck. On the north frontage road are three interesting abandoned structures. One--and the least interesting--is a former gas station.

Abandoned gas station in Houck, Arizona

Behind the gas station is an abandoned pancake house. The odd structure on the roof once held a windmill.

Former Pancake House in Houck, Arizona

To the right of the pancake house is an abandoned tourist attraction and trading post called Fort Courage.

Fort Courage in Houck, Arizona

Fort Courage was inspired by the 1960s television sitcom F Troop, which was based in a fictitious fort called Fort Courage.

We went back on I-40 west. In about 35 miles, we reached the exit for Petrified Forest National Park. By this point it was late afternoon. There’s so much jaw-dropping scenery in the park that, after spending the night in Holbrook, we drove back the next day so we could spend plenty of time visiting it.

There are some Route 66 fragments before and after the Petrified Forest, but we decided to stay on I-40. About 4 miles past the exit for Petrified Forest National Park we saw the Painted Desert Indian Center, a classic Route 66 tourist attraction, along the south side of I-40.

Painted Desert Indian Center west of Petrified Forest National Park.

Notice the dinosaur on the right! 

The Painted Desert Indian Center is along a Route 66 fragment that runs along the south side of I-40. Just a few hundred feet past the Painted Desert Indian Center, that Route 66 fragment crosses Little Lithodendron Wash Bridge, which can also be seen from I-40.

Little Lithodendron Wash Bridge, as seen from I-40

The Little Lithodendron Wash Bridge is a wooden bridge was built in 1932 to carry Route 66 traffic. It was rehabilitated in 1986 so you can still drive across it.

From here it’s about 10 miles to the Navajo Boulevard (Route 66) exit into Holbrook, Arizona.